Where Should I Stay in Siem Reap?

Where does one stay when visiting the UNESCO World Heritage site of Angkor Wat in Cambodia? Surprisingly there are many choices from small family run accommodations to the ultra exclusive Aman Resort.
I chose for our group, a charming and elegant boutique hotel in the heart of town: Hotel de la Paix. A spare monochromatic Asian aesthetic combined with the natural beauty of local stone and woods and an Art Deco flair, has resulted in a serene but sophisticated ambiance. The hotel is built with public spaces surrounding a central courtyard shown above with decorative pool: restaurant, lobby bar and meeting rooms. At the top, is the outdoor bar with suspended sofas for lounging and imbibing long, cool cocktails.
The corridors in the floors above are as attractive and stylish as I have seen in any hotel in the world, with pale walls, ebony doors, subdued lighting and lovely, decorative vases and tables. Entering your spacious room, you will take in all the 21st century amenities from plasma TVs to i-pod docks, a wonderful bed with fine linens, and a quite spectacular bath of limestone offering separate  rain shower and massive tub.
The staff are also exceptional with special kudos to GSM Christian de Boer who even met our group at 11pm on a very hot night at the airport, with individual hotel key cards and  full of local information. He is assisted by a wonderful staff who are eager to help you before you realize you need assistance!
Unexpected pleasures?
A wonderful breakfast buffet with  among other choices, eggs benedict, french pastries that will make you think of Paris, terrific coffee and exotic fruits.
A lovely outdoor pool located on an upper floor, cools you off after a long day tramping through temple ruins.
And when you book with me, enjoy a memorable dinner for two during your stay. Go now!
Details at:
http://www.signaturetravelnetwork.com/utils/cpe3/templates/hotel_profile.cfm?agency_id=613&cid=136410

Part II:Going for the Good Weather at the Good Places: California

What a wonderful experience staying at the magnificent Resort at Pelican Hill! Just north of Laguna and up the hill from Crystal Cove, lies this amazing new property on 2 golf courses, with views of the Pacific. The decor is absolutely spectacular, a color scheme of neutrals, incorporating Tuscan tiles, leather wall coverings, granite for days, high ceilings, linen sofas etc. I wanted to move in permanently. And where do you move in? Many choices from jr. suites to 4 bedroom homes-all pristine and rustically elegant with their wood ceilings and French style fireplaces. What to do? Golf, swim in the enormous circular pool-ala Rome B.C.-, enjoy the spa, do the art galleries in Laguna, stroll the beach, chill! Can't wait to go back. AND you can enjoy complimentary breakfasts and other amenities when you book with me. Gosh, John has it tough. I have to get him out more!

Going for the Good Weather at the Good Places: Arizona

End of March in the rain found me in a few sunny places worth putting on the list: After several years away, enjoyed a 4 day stay at the iconic Arizona Biltmore. The gardens and flowers were perfection as was the weather. Public spaces in the main building and  the new Frank & Alberts casual restaurant both looked good,and although the service in F&A's left something to be desired, the food was uniformly good. Where to stay with so many choices here of accommodation? Definitely the Ocatilla Wing, the Biltmore's new boutique hotel within the resort, with it's exclusive lounge, various meal presentations, wine and beer each evening, new pool and dedicated concierge. The rooms are very spacious with fine finishes. The other wings are in need of  updating, but if you can put up with the decor, the lovely cottages sprinkled around the property are still charming.

Review of The New Silver Spirit

We had an opportunity to stay aboard the new Silversea ship April 1 while it was overnight in LA. The first new build in 9 years for Silversea, it is about 30% larger than Silver Whisper/Shadow with a capacity of 540 guests and 376 crew. You will notice how much bigger it feels-though it is only 8000 tons heavier. The pool deck is expansive and there are lovely large outdoor areas off the Panorama bar aft and the Terrace Cafe giving many more the option to dine outside in the evening. The main dining room is quite similar to the other ships, but the additional dining rooms add three more venues to choose from (some at a surcharge): Stars Supper Club on Deck 7 is a very trendy spot with light offerings and a fabulous jazz singer and pianist that is the place to go late in the evening, including a dance floor;Seishin offers sushi and Asian specialties; the Grill above the pool outdoors is sure to be in demand. These are in addition to Le Champagne- the wine pairing gourmand spot, the Terrace Cafe for Italian, and of course your own cozy suite for those dine-in evenings.
What didn't I like? The color scheme didn't grab me, the location of The Bar on Deck 5 lacks the cozy feel of the other ships. I think the Panorama will end up being the bar of choice for pre dinner cocktails. What did I love? The new spa is spacious with  fab treatment rooms and dedicated outdoor jacuzzi on Deck 6;  all the new outdoor space. Also, new suite deck furniture-yeah! and new lounges by the pool-much wished for on those sunny sea days.

Peru and Chile by Silversea's Expedition Ship

The crew including the McDonalds, Dixes and ourselves braving the wilds of Isla Pan de Azucar.

The dry coast of Northern Chile. No rain in 40 years!

Mochi friezes at Huaca de la Luna Salaverry, Peru.

Our sleek little 148 passenger expedition ship by Silversea.

TRAVELING THE MEKONG RIVER THROUGH CAMBODIA AND VIETNAM

River cruising is suddenly red hot. Despite the economy, interest and bookings have never been higher.Originating on the rivers of Europe, now travelers have a unique opportunity  to see the untouched landscapes and rural way of life in Cambodia and Vietnam aboard the Ms. Marguerite and Amalotus.We recently organized and escorted a group of 40 adventure seekers from Washington State, on an expedition originating in Siem Reap and ending in Saigon. Indelible scenes included the famous UNESCO temples of Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm, a perfect stay at the elegant Hotel de la Paix (see additional review previously posted), Tonle Sap lake, villages of clustered homes on stilts, hillside temples, serene rice paddies and the emerging sophistication of Phnom Penh.

The ship is built in the colonial style reminiscent of French Indochina-lots of mahogany paneling and polished floors,Vintage phones and fans in each room (along with an excellent air conditioning system), window seats in the upperdeck cabins adjacent to small balconies, and tiled baths.The hot water  supply was limited to 5 gallons at a time.
Teak day beds and wicker furnishings fill the top deck along with a somewhat awkward pool and bar area. Here, passengers could have an early cup of coffee while watching the riverbanks wake up.  In addition there is a full size lounge and a comfortable dining room.
Daily excursions-often by long tail boats, and complimentary local wine (marginal) and beer (excellent) are included in the reasonable fare.  Excursion highlights included the royal palaces at Phnom Penh, rickshaw rides through small towns, and a somber afternoon at Cambodia's infamous Killing Fields.
We look forward to bringing more of our clients to this unspoiled part of the world in 2012. Both the Cambodians and Vietnamese people are hospitable, curious, industrious and anxious to share  their cultures with the West.Call or email me if you would like to be on the information list for our next Mekong Voyage.

The Highlands of Ecuador

Last year I read an unforgettable article in the April edition of NG Traveler about the Ecuadorian Highlands. Ecuador was always on my list, and I had a geographical coincidence scheduled for October, that suddenly made it a possibility.
Six of us traveled north from the capital of Quito, to the highlands of Otavalo-and I mean highlands
as in 9000 feet above sea level. This where all those gorgeous ecuadorian roses come from that sell for $4 a bud here and $4 a dozen there.
http://traveler.nationalgeographic.com/2009/04/ecuador-photography

There we settled in to a 400 year old hacienda surrounded by volcanoes and which happened to be a frequent nightstop for Simon Bolivar. The generous old rooms looked out onto gardens and had fireplaces that were lit nightly with fragrant wood, while we enjoyed great meals and Chilean wines in the whitewashed dining room. Pre dinner cocktails were in an old stable tack room, and a traditional indigenous flute band made us feel a million miles from home. The famous Otavalo Market was incredibly authentic and colorful, full of roosters, spices, alpaca wools, leather and nearly all the vendors were in various traditional clothing. We explored this area for two days with a great guide and private van, before taking a 30 min flight to sea level.Pretty much straight down! This is a country to return to.

The Ultimate Guest Ranch

I was lucky enough to spend a pre-opening weekend at the Ranch at Rock Creek in Montana. www.theranchatrockcreek.com. What a wonderful destination for corporate incentives, family reunions or simply a great 4-5 day getaway-summer or winter.
The brainchild of investment banker Jim, it more than accomplishes it's goal of being the first real luxe dude ranch in Montana. And it isn't all about horses, though their stable of 40+ steeds are there for the taking, up through the wonderful hills that surround the lodge. A picture perfect creek full of cutthroat trout, runs between the main lodge and the tented camp, and all the equipment from waders to flies are there for you to use, as well as personable guides that take the feelings of inadequacy right out of your first fly fishing experience! I even caught one! And I am hooked on it, so to speak.
But it doesn't stop there. The spa awaits, as does the incredibly luxurious great room where everyone gathers for pre dinner drinks around the fire, before dinner in the rustic dining room, which serves a delightful mix of comfort food and sophisticated fare. Just when you think you can't have any more fun, off you go to the full scale bowling alley, with shoes and a bowling ball just right for you, for as many games as you are game to play. We followed that up with a screening of the classic western " The Big Country"! All total escapism and yet simple pleasures. And the staff makes it feel simple, but actually it is a superb mix of casual but 5 star service and western hospitality.
Everything is included in your rate-from cognac after dinner to a private fly fishing lesson. The ultimate luxury-no signing a chit for any activity or intake!
The Ranch was written up this month in Town and Country so check it out at:

http://kurtzahlers.com/pdf/TRRCTownAndCountryDecember.pdf

I will be back this winter with a follow up on the winter season, at this very special place!

Istanbul Luxe Hotels Part II

There are plenty of new options on the European side as well. We stayed at the new Four Seasons Bosphorus, a restored former palace set on this incredibly entertaining waterway. Vast stone terraces with pool, conversation areas and two restaurants look out on the myriad of vessels parading by continuously, including the beautiful old wooden gulet, that plies between this Four Seasons and the one in the ancient monument district of Sulthanamet ( a converted prison in fact).


Main lobby areas are superbly designed with sumptuous but unfussy sofas and easy chairs. Rooms are of course lovely and generous in size, but no balconies unless you are in the main palace building which is significantly more expensive than the new side wings.

The spa may be the most spectacular one I have ever had the pleasure to indulge at!
Dimly lit cavernous halls and various rooms, with a lovely Mediterranean blue theme, and wonderful scents. Truly a 21st century version of a royal hamman!
All in all this new property will give the Ciragan Palace a run for it's money!

If you can live without a water view in a city that is full of them, then the new Park Hyatt
is a terrific business hotel in a commercial area. In my opinion the best bath I have ever seen in a city hotel. Color scheme is muted in warm browns, taupe and ivory, and they have managed to slide in a pool area for an after work dip.

Prices here are reasonable for the level of comfort you buy.Definitely a contender.Bath is photo below.

The W-well this is a good one also without views, but definitely for the under 40 crowd. Dark entry, dark elevators and hallways are supposed to give you a certain jive. What I did like were the clever cabanas attached by a walkway from certain categories of rooms, and the comfort level of the rooms. The rest felt like it was trying to hard to be hip.


And speaking of over the top-Les Ottomans, trying terribly hard to be a hang out for Paris Hilton and her wannabes. A small mansion on the Bosphorus that could be a great boutique hotel if they paid more attention to the stains on the outdoor cushions and a little less to the feng shui of the gazillion dollar vinotherapie spa. Best for Hollywood types, which is obvious from the pantheon of minor celebrity photos on display always posing with what appears to be a fairly egotistical owner.

Istanbul: New Luxe Hotels in a World Class City

Just returned from Istanbul and spent a full day inspecting boutique hotels that had opened since my last stay, as well as two new 5 star properties, the Four Seasons Bosphorus and the Park Hyatt. Istanbul becomes more exciting and sophisticated every year. So many different neighborhoods from the historical Sulthanamet to the fashionable district of Nisantasi. This time, we crossed one of the spectacular suspension bridges and visited the Asian shores of this metropolis. There we found two delightful small hotels on the water that give you more of a seaside holiday experience while still be a short ride by boat to the heart of the city on the European side: Sumahan and A'jia.

Sumahan still reflects it's former life as a distillery, with a trendy industrial feel to the lobby, and 20 sleek rooms all with views of the Bosphorus below, and fireplaces to warm you in winter.Their private yacht goes back and forth 3 times daily to the Europe side. A delightful place for a fall weekend at the end of your Greek Island cruise.

A'jia has the architecture of the many old traditional wooden villas that line this side of the waterway and was in fact a pasha's palace in days past. A lovely terrace fronts this hotel which has been converted into 16 contemporary rooms. For good value and a cool view, try the ones on the top floor with their own terraces.
Next report: Les Ottomans and The W!

The Maldives

Top to Bottom: Infinity pool; Enroute to Kuda Huraa;white sand beaches and turquoise water of a private island!











The Maldive Island chain south of India-what travel buff hasn't heard of it. A nation whose leader is buying up land in Australia to move his population when global warming swamps his country. I often wondered how it all worked when you arrived at the main airport of Mahe.
It is surprisingly easy to arrive and transfer to a waiting yacht, many of which will take you right from the terminal on the water to private island resorts.
When we arrived, our yacht crew flagged us down and escorted us to the pristine 30 foot vessel that whisked us over the Indian Ocean to Four Seasons Kuda Huraa about 30 mins away.
Lifejackets and water in hand, we swept by various atolls and resorts enroute. Upon arrival staff met us and took us on a tour through the white sandy lanes of this private island. Beautiful individual bungalows lining a powder sugar beach leading to a long dock with the overwater residences on stilts, all too lovely and surprisingly the less expensive beach accommodations were actually more enticing. Private verandas and gardens, spectacular baths with freestanding tubs and separate showers, glass walls looking out at a turquoise lagoon. Three lovely dining venues, the requisite infinity pool and open air bar for sunset cocktails. The spa is only accessible by a small private dhow (above) and solitude prevails. Too beautiful and a wonderful escape from the real world.

Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

Well, let me say first, I have always wanted to see this island chain in the Indian Ocean. But it is a very long trip to get there, in our case through Paris and Dubai. The new Four Seasons had just opened in February and is located about 40 mins from the quaint capital of Mahe. A very tropical and verdant island, the roads are narrow and somewhat rutted. We drove up and down hills across the island, passing somewhat ramshackle houses painted in pastel Caribbean hues. Occasionally, a crowd of students in tidy navy uniforms from the Catholic schools, would be walking along the road on their way home for lunch.
Just when we began to wonder if the resort was a fantasy, we drove up a partially paved road to an open air reception building. Here is where we gave our names and transferred to a golf cart for the hairraising ride down the other side to the sea. The resort is built on a steep hillside-a collection of 62 one thousand sf bungalows hidden in the palms with beautiful individual infinity pools, long verandas and outdoor lounging pavilions.
The decor touches inside and out are very special and unique to this culture. Lots of original art, splashes of turquoise on taupe backgrounds, leather day bed in the huge plantation inspired bathroom with outdoor shower. A peek a boo view to the aqua surf and pool below us.
More info to come on this unique resort and destination.

Arabia aboard Silversea

Pirates off Somalia? Should you risk it to go through the Suez Canal? I did and I would again.
Cruise ships don't want any bad press. Their primary concern is taking care of their valued guests. Last year, when we cruised from Dubai to Athens- a 15 day journey along the Arabian coast and up through Oman, Saudi Arabia Egypt, & Jordan, we had perfect weather, and became so much more familiar with the Islamic world. Our vessel was the Silver Wind and at 280 guests it offers incredible service but is also large enough to feel secure in this area. 4 days behind us was the Le Ponant-a much smaller sailing ship which
was in fact captured and later rescued by French forces.
What made this trip worth doing other than the fact that 15 days on Silversea is heaven? An overland 2 day excursion to the Valley of the Kings and Luxor in Egypt; a opportunity to dress in chadors (required) and catch a glimpse of life in the city of Jeddah, Saudi Arabia; finally a chance to trek the long hidden entryway to the ancient city of Petra. And by the way, the 15 days was one of thos remarkable deals we often get from Silversea at about $4500 pp including a suite, all beverages and gratuities. I keep a close eye on these deals and always offer extra amenities such as a pre night hotel or spa credit. Let me know where in the world you want to go on Silversea. Future cruises start at $3000 for 9 days and $1000 in shipboard credit to use as you wish!
Ask me about our next exotic destination in October 2009-aboard their expedition ship Prince Albert II. 14 days for under $3500!
PS Don't ask about the hand holding in the picture above right! We are still trying to work it out:)

Dubai:
The iconic Burj al Arab hotel. Do you spend the really big bucks or not. Not. Over the top in a Liberace Las Vegas sort of way. Filled with the new Russian millionaire set-not a very appealing group on the whole.
What would I do here? Chill for a couple days after the long flght in a beautiful desert resort, then move into town to one of several elegant but far more tasteful properties. Book a private tour, take a seaplane flight. Call me to book.

Dubai, Egypt, Saudi Arabia on Silversea

What better way to see the Arabian Peninsula than by a small luxury ship like Silversea. Starting in Dubai, we explored the old and new cities, went dunebashing in a landcruiser ( no we didn't drive) and had a dinner virtually alone in the desert with lanterns, a private chef and seated on a persian carpet on the sand.Who says you can't get fine wines in the Emirates?