Sunday, June 8, 2014

When you have visited a port before, what to do the next time?



Maybe you know the feeling. You have been lucky enough to call at a beautiful Mediterranean port more than once, and it shows up again on a new itinerary. Do you eliminate the cruise because of that? No! You find new things to do.

We did this recently aboard Silversea, in Ibiza, Mallorca and Lisbon.

Ibiza: Always an enjoyable stroll in this walled town with fun boutiques and open air restaurants, but this beautiful day, we yearned for a great beach, and so we walked around the harbor to the ticketing office for the ferries that go regularly to the 4th Balearic Island of Formentera. We were just in time, as a high speed boat was departing in 10 minutes.We felt safe doing this, as our ship did not depart Ibiza until 10:00pm. I would not recommend you try this with a ship departure before 7pm.
Formentera is just an hour away by hydrofoil  and just above sea level, surrounded by amazing white beaches. Some beaches are walkable in good shoes, bikes are for rent at the port or, as we were four, we took a taxi to Playa de las Salines, about 15 minutes away. Renting 2 umbrellas, we stretched out  on a beautiful white sand crescent and swam for hours in the clear turquoise water. Added to the entertainment were the occasional nude sunbather and topless young and old. After beers at the local beach bar, where patrons sat in swimsuits and gold sandals to long lunches and plenty of wine, we had the bar call us a cab to catch the 4pm ferry back to Ibiza. A great day and memory!

The beach at Formentera


Ibiza at night from the ship.


Mallorca:One of my favorite islands in the world. But after two spring breaks spent there, and at least 4 visits to the port of Palma, we were looking for a special and low key afternoon with our friends Gerry and Maruta. After heading into the capital, we negotiated a  4 hour rate with a cab driver and headed out of town to the northwest. The highway gets you to the beautiful countryside fast, then you go through Valdemossa and on to the stunning cliffside environs of Deia, a fairytale place with stone villas (royal family members + Michael Douglas have homes here) and on to one of my favorite hotels  in Spain, La Residencia. The lobby features old photos of Mick Jagger, Liz Taylor and other past guests who have sought an exclusive but unpretentious getaway. Rooms are scattered around in various buildings, and  decorated in white fabrics or florals with exposed timbers. The beautiful indigenous carmel stonework is  inside and out, and shuttered french doors keep the hot sun out and bring in the cool evening air. Pools are scattered around among the palms and verdant foliage. The beach is a walk or shuttle below the cliffs. Sitting outside, with a light and delicious lunch of a perfectly dressed salad nicoise and glass of dry white wine made on the island, is a perfect afternoon. Service is unobtrusive, warm and efficient. After this lovely experience, we head back to the bustle of the great Cathedral of Palma and wander the streets of the old town. I love Mallorca. It is worth a week or two.



Lisbon: Such and interesting city with it's monumental plazas, many hills and unique neighborhoods perched above the Tagus River. But after several visits there, we decided to venture to the medieval walled town of Obidos some 90 mins. north. Here life remains much the same as in past centuries, with ramparts, whitewashed buildings, tile roofs, but with the addition of of many galleries and artisan shops. It would make a memorable night stop in a driving tour of Northern Portugal. And the place to stay is the beautifully restored Pousada de Obidos.


The Pousada


Creating lace in a time honored tradition.


The Ancient City of Petra

The Ancient City of Petra
Just like the Indiana Jones movie! Hidden from civilization for thousands of years, it is a wonderful sight!