Sunday, June 8, 2014

When you have visited a port before, what to do the next time?



Maybe you know the feeling. You have been lucky enough to call at a beautiful Mediterranean port more than once, and it shows up again on a new itinerary. Do you eliminate the cruise because of that? No! You find new things to do.

We did this recently aboard Silversea, in Ibiza, Mallorca and Lisbon.

Ibiza: Always an enjoyable stroll in this walled town with fun boutiques and open air restaurants, but this beautiful day, we yearned for a great beach, and so we walked around the harbor to the ticketing office for the ferries that go regularly to the 4th Balearic Island of Formentera. We were just in time, as a high speed boat was departing in 10 minutes.We felt safe doing this, as our ship did not depart Ibiza until 10:00pm. I would not recommend you try this with a ship departure before 7pm.
Formentera is just an hour away by hydrofoil  and just above sea level, surrounded by amazing white beaches. Some beaches are walkable in good shoes, bikes are for rent at the port or, as we were four, we took a taxi to Playa de las Salines, about 15 minutes away. Renting 2 umbrellas, we stretched out  on a beautiful white sand crescent and swam for hours in the clear turquoise water. Added to the entertainment were the occasional nude sunbather and topless young and old. After beers at the local beach bar, where patrons sat in swimsuits and gold sandals to long lunches and plenty of wine, we had the bar call us a cab to catch the 4pm ferry back to Ibiza. A great day and memory!

The beach at Formentera


Ibiza at night from the ship.


Mallorca:One of my favorite islands in the world. But after two spring breaks spent there, and at least 4 visits to the port of Palma, we were looking for a special and low key afternoon with our friends Gerry and Maruta. After heading into the capital, we negotiated a  4 hour rate with a cab driver and headed out of town to the northwest. The highway gets you to the beautiful countryside fast, then you go through Valdemossa and on to the stunning cliffside environs of Deia, a fairytale place with stone villas (royal family members + Michael Douglas have homes here) and on to one of my favorite hotels  in Spain, La Residencia. The lobby features old photos of Mick Jagger, Liz Taylor and other past guests who have sought an exclusive but unpretentious getaway. Rooms are scattered around in various buildings, and  decorated in white fabrics or florals with exposed timbers. The beautiful indigenous carmel stonework is  inside and out, and shuttered french doors keep the hot sun out and bring in the cool evening air. Pools are scattered around among the palms and verdant foliage. The beach is a walk or shuttle below the cliffs. Sitting outside, with a light and delicious lunch of a perfectly dressed salad nicoise and glass of dry white wine made on the island, is a perfect afternoon. Service is unobtrusive, warm and efficient. After this lovely experience, we head back to the bustle of the great Cathedral of Palma and wander the streets of the old town. I love Mallorca. It is worth a week or two.



Lisbon: Such and interesting city with it's monumental plazas, many hills and unique neighborhoods perched above the Tagus River. But after several visits there, we decided to venture to the medieval walled town of Obidos some 90 mins. north. Here life remains much the same as in past centuries, with ramparts, whitewashed buildings, tile roofs, but with the addition of of many galleries and artisan shops. It would make a memorable night stop in a driving tour of Northern Portugal. And the place to stay is the beautifully restored Pousada de Obidos.


The Pousada


Creating lace in a time honored tradition.


Visiting Chewton Glen in the New Forest, UK

Chewton Glen www.chewtonglen.com

Who knew? Who knew there was such a place as the New Forest in the southwest of England. Where William the Conquerer in 1079, set aside these 200 sq. miles as his personal hunting grounds.

It is still there. And also there, and well provided for, are over 3000 wild  ponies, small villages with wonderful histories, and to offer you a home away from home, is Chewton Glen.

Set in the middle of nowhere, but in fact just 35 minutes from the cruise ship dock at Southampton, and walking distance from the coast, is this remarkable, rambling brick country house on 136 acres. A maze of delightful and unique rooms and suites (only 58) are bookended by serene sitting rooms, beautiful pools, all manner of sports facilities, grand spa and superb dining. Take a croquet lesson from a master of croquet! Or take a cooking class, explore their organic gardens and learn about the new and impressive wine areas of England

As an unexpected addition, the owners have recently constructed ¼ mile away,in a quiet glade, uber modern safari like villas on stilts called the tree houses  with multiple bedrooms, private decks, top of the line kitchens, hot tubs and complete privacy. Popular among the celebrity circuit, they offer a most un –English type experience, but with all the amenities that this most English country house offers. 

What is there to do other than tennis, croquet, spa and swimming? There are wonderful villages to explore such as Beaulieu, where you must tour the estate of the Montagues with it's superb guide, Maureen Broughton. Hiking the trails, and horse riding nearby, will also fill your days.
Great for families or for an adult getaway, or for a country house experience prior to or following the ship docking on the southern coast. The staff from sommelier to the  very personable GM, Mr. Andrew Stembridge, will ensure you have a perfect stay!

A cozy spot to read the morning paper.


Spectacular baths at the exotic tree houses.



Clivedon, UK-Living the Upstairs Downstairs Life!

Clivedon House  www.clivedonhouse.com

This spring I had a great opportunity to see 2 iconic country hotels in the UK, thanks to Ellen Freschauf of Select Resorts and Hotels and the hospitality of the hotels' management team.

Just 30 mins. from Heathrow Airport, nestled in 376 acres of formal gardens above the Thames, lies the magnificent Clivedon House, former country home of Lord and Lady Astor. Built first in 1666 and after various fires and disasters, re-built finally once again, in the mid-1800s, it will take you back to the Britain of many glories and famed tradition. 

The main house is flanked by two wings, which have been completely renovated creating lovely rooms and grand suites.
The central part of the building houses a cozy living room with grand fireplace imported from France by Lord Astor himself, as well as an even cozier library and 2 beautiful dining rooms with views opening out to the glorious gardens.

Service was warm and professional. There is only a small desk at the entry to complete a painless check in, and then it is on to tea and crumpets and cookies in front of the fire, while your room is prepared for you.

Cocktails are taken in the library before indulging in the best of new British cuisine, paired with an expansive wine list, amid crisp linens, cozy banquettes, and fresh flowers.

Bed linens are superb as well, and what can be better than having two gentlemen in starched white shirts, black vests and trousers, come knocking at your door at 9am, with silver salvers and china dishes full of breakfast goodies, to set up for you in front of your fireplace. Oh to be among the gentry!

A close second is a leisurely walk among the formal gardens and hedgerows, a treatment at the spa, or best of all, hiring a vintage cabin cruiser with Capt. Steve, to pick you up at the riverbank below, and pilot you down the Thames to the charming town of Bray, home of three Michelin starred restaurants. Mist rising over the river, manicured lawns, homes of the 1% along the banks, and on the aft deck cushions, champagne flows and savory sandwiches  are yours to enjoy!

This is the perfect break in your trip onward to Europe or on your return, or simply as a long weekend before heading into the mad crush that is London. Any time of year! 
Clivedon is a Signature preferred hotel which offers our clients a  full breakfast  daily and food credit, when booked through our office.

The magnificent Clivedon House.


On the river Thames, which lies below the house.

Lady Astor's Suite

A typical room in the newly renovated wing.




The Ancient City of Petra

The Ancient City of Petra
Just like the Indiana Jones movie! Hidden from civilization for thousands of years, it is a wonderful sight!